In the early part of the game the formation of a center such as two pawns abreast at e4 and d4 is a very desirable object, and in the Gambits of the Kingside the f-pawn is even sacrificed for that purpose. With the view of strengthening the center it is usually better to capture with a pawn toward the middle rather than toward the wing when the capture can be effected by two different pawns. When both sides have moved 1.e4 e5 and have also castled on the Kingside, it will be often advantageous to allow the f-pawns to be doubled in order to form some attack on the open g-file, or else with the object of afterward dissolving the doubled pawn by advancing the pawn f3-f4. In like manner, the doubling of a pawn on the c-file may be useful in order to obtain command for the Queen's Rook on the open b-file and with the view of advancing c3-c4. But an isolated doubled pawn, especially one on the Rook's file, is mostly a great disadvantage. Most particular care should be taken that the opponent does not obtain the majority of pawns on the Queenside, on the wing opposite on which the Kings of both parties usually castle. For a skillful player will generally manage to cut off the King from crossing to the other side, and the weaker pawns, thus deprived of the help of a powerful piece, will rarely be able to offer sufficient resistance to the opposite superiority of force. The majority of pawns on the Kingside is rarely of much use, for the pawns of that wing cannot well advance without exposing their own King, and in the ending the hostile King is near at hand for stopping them.
Each pawn has its own peculiarities which we shall endeavor to describe briefly. The two Rook's pawns are the weakest, as each only commands one square, while the others command two. But each when advanced is only liable to be attacked by one pawn on the hostile Knight's file, while the other pawns can be attacked by two hostile pawns, one on each side. When the opponent has first moved ...h7-h6 after castling on the Kingside while you have not yet castled, you may also reply h2-h3 with the view then of advancing g2-g4 and endeavoring to break through with the pawns on that wing. It is also good play to drive back a hostile piece by h2-h3, but otherwise, especially when you have castled Kingside such an advance is not good, for it exposes that pawn to attack in many contingencies and it also makes it inconvenient to advance the f-pawn, since a hole is then formed at g3.
The g-pawn if advanced to g3 leaves at once a hole at h3 and f3, for it is assumed that the e-pawn has already moved, or will have to move soon. If he advance to g4, supported by h2-h3, he leaves additional holes at f4 and h4.
It is advantageous to advance the f-pawn to f4 after castling when an adverse pawn is fixed at e5 by your own e-pawn which should be well defended. If your d-pawn has been exchanged for the opposite e-pawn, it is more often better to play f2-f3 in support of your e-pawn. If the e-pawn has been exchanged on each side, it is rarely good to advance the f-pawn, for it leaves a weak square at e3 against which an attack of the hostile Rook can also be directed. If the f-pawn remains unmoved, he will often give good support to the Queen's Bishop or King's Rook at e3.
The advance of the e-pawn to the fifth square is specially objectionable, as the opponent will mostly gain opportunities, by ...f7-f6, of opening an important file for his Rook. Likewise, if the d-pawn play to his fifth, the answer ...c7-c6 will release the adverse Queen and open a promising file for the hostile Queen's Rook.
When the d-pawn has been exchanged it is seldom right to advance c2-c3. Likewise, when the d-pawn is still at d3 the advance of the c-pawn will leave the d-pawn weak, and again, under other conditions, it retards the development of Nc3 with scarcely enough object in the opening. But still c2-c3 is often a good move latter on.
The advance of the b-pawn naturally leaves holes at once at a3 and c3, as d2-d4 or d2-d3 are either supposed to be done already or sure to follow. Finally the early pushing of a2-a3 can hardly do any good, but loses time and makes the subsequent advance of c2-c4 which is sometimes good and necessary, objectionable on the ground that a hole will be created at b3.
Thus it may be repeated in general that in most openings only the e-pawn and d-pawn should be maneuvered in conjunction with a rapid development of the minor pieces, and though the f-pawn and the c-pawn may sometimes assist, it is at least useless and often compromising to move Rook's pawn or Knight's pawn on either side in the early part of the game. A pawn attack may, however, often be formed with advantage when the opponent has crowded too many pieces on one wing or when he has given an opportunity for effecting a promising break through on either side by advancing one of his pawns; but as a rule the fight in the center in conjunction with the two Bishop's pawns will be sufficient, and at least the option of moving one or two squares ought to be reserved for the ending for the other pawns.
There are other principles based on reasonings by analogies between different positions, as well as comparisons and combinations between different principles when they come in conflict with each other, but as explained in the preface they are outside of the limits of this work, for they would require too laborious illustration. However in our introductory comments of the games between Messrs. Steinitz and Tschigorin we give some instances of the application of principles in the opening with some explanations of their influence on later stages of the game.
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